Inspired by an Era of determination,
a master boot makers knowledge passed to Apprentice,
a time honored craft using a single pair of hands,
bears the mark Gabbard follows when designing and building
Gabbard from MYG builds only Kustom (Made to Measure)
bench-built traditionally handcrafted boots from your personal outlined foot tracings and foot measurements, they are not assembly line manufactured from a Goodyear Welted Machine nor were they made using any type of Gemming fabric.
Simply one at a time...by a single pair of hands.
The LAST is first!
And the most important treasure of all in a shoemakers collection of tools, after searching years for a structural form that was magically unique in every way I acquired the "Drifters Last" a vintage 1943 Vulcan
Wooden LAST at the cross roads of America one hot afternoon
and it solidified the direction and became the conner stone of my design references and appreciation for mid-century American Folklore.
Old School Modification...
The Kustom modification of this original 43 Vulcan wooden Last is what separates the profile and fit of a MYG boot from others, with its vintage style from the past while engineering a fit for the future, it was modified using a technique called (Fitting up) and a variety of materials were used in the process such as (Carpenters Wood Filler) to create a new and unique design shape from this classic American Maplewood Last.
The 8 original modified LAST were all set to a LAST manufacture
and copied into a (complete size run) which is the (Base) starting point for each boot build.
MYG LAST STYLES; ST44, NS40, C84, KS84, MCB40, RTS43, RD84, K36, unlike any other on the market.
Kustom Foot Measurements...
Once the Foot Tracings and Measurements are reviewed at MYG and calculated to the exact millimeter then the process of (Building up) the Last with strips of Veg-tanned leather are added to the clients personal (foot form) LAST, formulating to the nearest foot measurement replication.
Using a single pair of hands, non electrical hand cranked
Machines your boots were crafted using Traditional European Shoemakers methods, from hand-cutting the leather templates to hand-cranked sewn stitched tops.
A European Holdfast / Channel are hand cut into the 12 Iron Insoles then Hand-Lasted, and Hand-Welted using a Traditional German 270 / 360 degree 3/4" veg tanned
leather Welt which requires 4 to 5 hours of work to complete.
The XXX Back-Curve...
Designing and building boots inspired from the 1940's era with a classic look from the past was a true challenge that
based itself entirely on the design element of the
"MYG (signature) XXX Back-Curve Heel Counters" which
consist of 9 separate pieces of leather securing the heel in
place and allowing a fit unlike any other.
This designed back curve is what makes a boot from that Era
stand out above all else, and this design most importantly signifies a classic Vintage inspired Workwear boot.
Structured Toe Box...
If your boots were not built using a "Structured" piece of Veg-Tanned Leather or a more ridged piece of Celastic (Toe Puff)
and inserted in-between the Upper and the Lining at the Toe Box to support the shape of your boots profile and protect your toes, a very important aspect of the build was skipped over and will likely cause the uncomfortable result of a (Collapsed Toe Box).
Leather rubbing against the top of your Toes is a sign of a pair of boots, that were constructed without the use a Traditional
Toe Puff. "Preparing the Upper" Toe Box is a Traditional method that takes 2 or more hours to perfect, allowing the sizing, cutting, shaping, and molding of the Toe Puff to fit the boot box perfectly, creating the most accurate
and truest Profile that the LAST and it's originally designed shape was intended.
There are several Ounce Weights of Veg-tanned leather to
choose from and it's a highly regarded procedure at MYG to apply these Traditional Shoemakers skills on every boot built.
This Ain't No Hobby...
I build boots the old school way, one at a time...with a single pair
And yes it takes awhile.